ATTREZZATURA - TOOLS

RICAMBI - SPARE PARTS

• Sostituzione - ogni anno - del'olio idraulico degli impianti idraulici freno/frizione;
• Sostituzione - ogni due anni - delle tubazioni idrauliche e conseguentemente del liquido idraulico degli impianti idraulici freno/frizione;
• Sostituzione/smontaggio delle pasticche freno;
• Sostituzione/smontaggio dei dischi frizione;
• Sostituzione componenti impianto frenante/frizione (pinze, attuatore frizione, pompe freno e/o frizione).

Da tenere presente che alcune operazioni basilari ed alcune precauzioni sono comuni a tutti i tipi di impianto e verranno tralasciate nella descrizione degli interventi.

• La prima cautela basilare consiste nel proteggere tutta la zona in cui si sta lavorando in modo adeguato con carta da pulizia.
• Ogni volta che si opera su un impianto idraulico si deve prendere olio specifico da un contenitore nuovo.
• I serbatoi degli impianti su cui state lavorando devono essere sempre tenuti aperti e si deve sempre verificare che il livello dell'olio al suo interno non scenda mai al minimo.
• Ricordatevi di collegare sempre la vite di spurgo del componente su cui si sta lavorando ad un tubicino in gomma di una lunghezza adatta a ché l'estremità libera possa essere infilata ed immersa in un contenitore (dalle dimensioni di un bicchiere) riempito per metà di olio idraulico.
• I livelli olio dei serbatoi degli impianti frenanti devono essere sempre mantenuti in prossimità del livello massimo.
• I livelli olio del serbatoio dell'impianto frizione deve essere sempre mantenuto intermedio fra il livello minimo e massimo.
• In caso di riempimento e spurgo di un impianto idraulico completamente vuoto si inizia sempre con un sommario spurgo della pompa per poi proseguire con le pinze freno/attuatore frizione. Successivamente si perfeziona il lavoro procedendo nuovamente con uno spurgo della pompa e quindi nuovamente delle pinze freno/attuatore frizione.
• Quando aprite un serbatoio olio prendete sempre nota della posizione della membrana in gomma presente al suo interno. Asciugatela sempre con cura e controllatene lo stato, se presenta screpolature o crepe deve essere sostituita.
• In caso di schizzi indesiderati di olio pulite immediatamente la zona e sciacquatela con acqua abbondante ed un detergente neutro.
• Proteggetevi sempre dal contatto diretto con l'olio idraulico.

You must bleed the hydraulic circuit when:

• Changing - every year - the hydraulic oil of the clutch and brake implants;
• Changing - every two years - of the hydraulic hoses and the hydraulic oil of the clutch and brake circuits;
• Changing/disassembly of the brake pads;
• Changing/disassembly of the clutch plates;
• Changing of parts of the clutch or brake circuits (brake calipers, pumps, slave cylinder, etc.).

Some basilar operations and cautions are common to all the circuits and they will be omitted from the description of the operations.

• The first basilar caution is to shield all the operation area with cleaning paper.
• Every time that you work on a hydraulic circuit you must take the hydraulic oil from a sealed bottle.
• The covers of brake fluid reservoirs of the circuits must be open when working on and you must check that the oil inside never goes under the low mark.
• Remember to attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve and insert the other end of the tubing in a container with some hydraulic oil in.
• The level of the oil in the reservoirs of brake circuits must be just under the MAX mark.
• The level of the oil in the reservoirs of clutch circuit must be just in the middle from the MIN and the MAX marks.
• When you refill and bleed a new hydraulic circuit you must start with a brief bleed of the punp and then a brief bleed of the brake caliper/clutch slave cylinder. So you can perfect the operation starting a new pump bleeding and then again a bleed of the brake caliper/clutch slave cylinder.
• When you open an oil reservoir take note of the position of the rubber membrane. Dry and chek it with care. If you found some chaps or other damages on it you must change the membrane with a new one.
• In case of undesired squirts of hydraulic oil, clean immeditely the area and wash it with wather and mild soap.
• Protect yourself from contacts from the hydraulic oil.

POMPE CON SERBATOIO INCORPORATO - PUMPS WITH BUILT-IN TANK

Let's start with an analysis of the Brembo brake and clutch pumps with monolithic structure of pump and reservoir. In this case bleeding is a long operation because you must work both pumps and brake caliper/clutch slave cylinder. Operate the lever some times. Holding the lever pulled in towards the handgrip, loosen the bleed valve on the brake caliper/clutch slave cylinder  to allow fluid to escape. When the oil stops his run close the bleed valve and relase slowly the lever. Continue this procedure untill no air bubbles escape from the the bleed valve into the plastic tubing.

This is a Brembo semi-radial pump with integrated reservoir. You can find them on 749-999. To bleed those pumps you don't need any plastic tubing and container, infact you the bleed valve is close by a bolt (head of 6 mm.) in the bottom of the reservoir. So, open the bleed bolt of about 1/2 turn. Operate slowly the lever and, after 2/3 of his run, start to close the bleed bolt. When the lever has finished his run you may have close the bleed bolt. Release the lever. Continue this procedure untill no air bubbles escape from the the bleed valve into the reservoir.

POMPE CON SERBATOIO SEPARATO - PUMPS WITHOUT TANK

This is a Brembo semi-radial pump with separate reservoir. You can find them on the last Monster series, Hypermotard and SBK 1098-848.

This is a classic Brembo assial pump "serie Oro", same years ago the top that you can ask on a street bike... but often used on race!

Questi tre tipi di pompa hanno una procedura di spurgo sostanzialmente simile. Aprite la vite di spurgo (cerchiata) di 1/2 giro. Premete lentamente la leva e, a circa 2/3 della corsa, iniziate a chiudere la vite di spurgo. Quando la leva avrà terminato la sua corsa si dovrà aver serrato completamente la vite di spurgo. Rilasciate libera la leva. Continuate con questa procedura fino a quando dal tubicino attaccato allo spurgo non fuoriusciranno più bollicine di aria.

This tree pumps have the same bleed procedure. With a fork wrench open the bleed valve (circled) of about 1/2 turn. Operate slowly the lever and, after 2/3 of his run, start to close the bleed valve. When the lever has finished his run you may have close the bleed valve. Release the lever. Continue this procedure untill no air bubbles escape from the the bleed valve into the plastic tubing.

A cult object: a Brembo Racing forged radial pump! Used in the top world championship races, SBK and MotoGP.

POMPA FRENO POSTERIORE - REAR BRAKE PUMP

1. membrana in gomma;
2. fermo circolare in plastica;
3. tappo a vite.

This picture shows a typical rear brake reservoir:

1. rubber membrane;
2. plastic stop;
3. screw cap.

The rear brake pump is very simple. It's important that, during the bleed and/or fill procedures, the reservoir must be higer than the pump. The fill/bleed of the pump has a procedure like the  Brembo brake and clutch pumps with monolithic structure of pump and reservoir: you will ou must work both pumps and brake caliper.

PINZE FRENO - ATTUATORE FRIZIONE

BRAKE CALLIPERS - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER

Before bleeding/filling operations on brake calipers or clutch slave cylinder you may summarily bleed the pump. This operation will increase pressure into the hydraulic circuit, helping the oil to fill it totally.

You can bleed a Clutch slave cylinder  working on the bleed valve on top of the hydraulic fitting. To carghe the oil into the slave cylinder I suggest to fill inside some hydraulic oil up to the lower limit of the thread of the special bolt of the oil hose. With a fork wrench open the bleed valve of about 1/2 turn. Operate slowly the lever and, after 2/3 of his run, start to close the bleed valve. When the lever has stopped his run you may have close the bleed valve. Release the lever. Continue this procedure untill no air bubbles escape from the the bleed valve into the plastic tubing.

Front brake calipers. To fill the circuit, operate 4 - 5 times the lever, so hold the lever and open the bleed valve on the brake caliper of about 1/2 turn. Wait some seconds. If you don't see any hydraulic oil escape from the plastic tubing connect to the bleed valve, repeat the operation. When the oil scape into the plastic tubing wait that it stops his run than close the bleed valve and relase slowly the lever. Repeat this procedure untill you will see only some little air bubble escape into the plastic tubing.
Now you can bleed the circuit: With a fork wrench open the bleed valve of about 1/2 turn. Operate slowly the lever and, after 2/3 of his run, start to close the bleed valve. When the lever has stopped his run you may have close the bleed valve. Release the lever. Continue this procedure untill no air bubbles escape from the the bleed valve into the plastic tubing.

The rear brake caliper, to be filled/bleeded, must be with its bleed valve as high as possible respect the brake caliper itself. To fill the circuit, operate 4 - 5 times the pedal, so hold the pedal and open the bleed valve on the brake caliper of about 1/2 turn. Wait some seconds. If you don't see any hydraulic oil escape from the plastic tubing connect to the bleed valve, repeat the operation. When the oil scape into the plastic tubing wait that it stops his run than close the bleed valve and relase slowly the lever. Repeat this procedure untill you will see only some little air bubble escape into the plastic tubing.
Now you can bleed the circuit: With a fork wrench open the bleed valve of about 1/2 turn. Operate slowly the pedal and, after 2/3 of his run, start to close the bleed valve. When the pedal has stopped his run you may have close the bleed valve. Release the pedal Continue this procedure untill no air bubbles escape from the the bleed valve into the plastic tubing.

In some models that have the rear brake caliper turned down (916 & Co., 1098 & Co, SS, ecc.), you must drop down or rotate the caliper. In this picture you can see how to release a caliper with anti-hopping system. In SBK models with rear single swingarm you must drop down the rear weel.